Choosing the right leather starts with understanding how it’s made. This page breaks down common terms, leather cuts, and weights you’ll see when shopping for leather. At Buckskin Leather Company, we only carry leather types we stand behind, no misleading finishes or imitation looks. We encourage you to learn the basics, ask questions, and feel confident in your purchase. We’re happy to offer honest, no-pressure advice anytime.

Knowledge is power. Let’s make sure you know what you’re buying.

Leather Finishes

Vegetable Tanned Leather

This leather is tanned using natural tannins extracted from tree bark and other plant materials. Known for its firmness and durability, vegetable-tanned leather is ideal for tooling, carving, stamping, and wet molding. It develops a rich, natural patina over time, making each piece unique. Often used in saddlery, belts, wallets, and heavy-duty leather goods.

Glovetan / Deertan Leather

Glovetan (or Deertan) is a soft, supple leather known for its buttery feel and flexibility. It’s thinner and more pliable, making it perfect for gloves, garments, and fine leather goods that require a gentle touch and smooth finish. Its natural softness provides excellent comfort and dexterity. As a great alternative to game hides, it has little finish, which means it is prone to scratches and staining.

Suede

After the top grain is removed, the lower layer of the hide is what’s called Split Suede. This leather has a soft suede texture on both sides and can be made in different thicknesses depending on its use. Split Suede is affordable and used in items where full grain strength isn’t needed—like tool pouches, moccasins, suede garments, and crafts.

Oiltan Leather

Oiltan leather is an oil-tanned or wax-infused leather prized for its rugged durability and water resistance. It ranges from medium to heavy weight and is favored for outdoor and work gear such as boots, saddles, harnesses, and heavy-duty straps. This finish offers excellent flexibility while standing up to harsh wear and weather.

Chrome Tanned Leather

Chrome tanning uses chromium salts to produce a softer, more pliable leather. This process is faster than vegetable tanning and results in leather that is generally more flexible and lighter in weight. Chrome-tanned leather is commonly used in fashion, upholstery, saddlebags, and horse gear, although it can not be tooled, dyed, or carved

Leather Terms

1. Full Grain Natural — “The Best”

This is the upper layer of a hide, split into thinner layers by a machine depending on the required thickness. If left in its natural state (known as full grain), it will show natural markings and haircell patterns, giving each piece a unique look. Used for saddlery, upholstery, garments, or footwear, this layer is the strongest, most durable, and most valuable part of the hide.

2. Corrected or Embossed Grain Leather — “Exotic Prints or Aesthetic Fixes”

This is full grain leather that had too many scars or scratches to be sold as-is. After splitting to the desired thickness, the surface is sanded smooth and then embossed with a pattern to make it look clean and uniform. You’ll often see this used in shoes, handbags, garments, and upholstery, sometimes even with exotic-style prints. Buckskin Leather Company does not sell corrected grain leathers. The only exception may be embossed exotic print hides, made to look like alligator, lizard, or other reptiles, where the embossing is intentional and clearly described.

3. Split Suede — “Soft & Fuzzy on Both Sides”

After the top grain is removed, the lower layer of the hide is what’s called Split Suede. This leather has a soft suede texture on both sides and can be made in different thicknesses depending on its use. Split Suede is affordable and used in items where full grain strength isn’t needed—like tool pouches, moccasins, suede garments, and crafts. It may be labeled “Genuine Leather,” which is technically true, but it’s important to know you’re not getting the top layer of the hide.

4. Nubuck Sueded Grain — “Very Sensitive Leather”

This leather starts as Full Grain, but the surface is lightly sanded to open the hair cells and create a velvety suede-like feel on the grain side. It’s soft and luxurious, but also very sensitive. The sanding process removes the natural protective finish, making the leather prone to soiling, staining, and water spots—and very difficult to clean. Used in garments and upholstery, Nubuck offers a premium look and feel, but requires extra care and maintenance. Buckskin Leather Company does not stock Nubuck sueded grain leather.

5. Reconstituted, Bonded, or Fibre Leather — “Recycled, Particle Board Leather – STAY AWAY”

This leather is made by grinding up leather scraps and remnants from garment and shoe factories. The leather fibers are then bonded together with adhesives to form a fabric, which is finished with a synthetic grain, hair-cell pattern, and surface coating. It looks similar to smooth Full Grain leather, but is essentially a composite particle board of leather fibers. Since it contains at least 51% leather fiber, it is legally labeled as “Genuine leather.”

Buyer beware! This material is common in low-priced garments and upholstery but lacks the durability, strength, and natural characteristics of full grain leather. Always ask questions before purchasing. Buckskin Leather Company does not stock this type of leather.

Leather Hide Guide

Not sure which cut of a hide is best for your project? Here’s a simple guide to help.Common Leather Cuts – Average Sizes & Characteristics

• Belly: 5-7 sq.ft. Stretchy with more wrinkles than other parts of the hide. Typically vegetable-tanned, good for small projects.
• Single Shoulder: 6-8 sq.ft. More even grain with fewer wrinkles than the belly. Typically vegetable-tanned, nice for slightly larger projects.
• Double Shoulder: 12-16 sq.ft. Provides a more uniform working area for longer projects. Mainly vegetable-tanned.
• Side: 22-26 sq.ft. Great for belts, straps, or anything requiring long, continuous pieces. Best value for its size.
• Full Hide: 45-50 sq.ft. Mainly used for upholstery and other projects requiring large, unbroken cuts.
• Bend: 10-14 sq.ft. Prime working area for belts. Bends tend to be costly, so buying a side (which includes the bend) is often the best value.
• Single Butt: 7-10 sq.ft. Strong, durable, and thick. Typically suede.
• Double Butt: 12-16 sq.ft. Strong, durable, and thick. Typically suede. Perfect for larger projects like chaps and aprons that need a bigger, consistent piece of leather.

Note: Measurements are approximate and may vary. If exact dimensions are important for your project, please confirm when ordering. Natural variations in leather are normal, and we’re not responsible for any discrepancies.

 

Leather Thickness Chart

Not sure which leather weight is right for your project? Here’s a general guide to common uses. Keep in mind that leather properties vary, and suitability depends on factors like tannage, finish, and project construction.

• 1-2 oz (0.4-0.8mm) – Wallet liners, book covers, garment lining
• • 2-3 oz (0.8-1.2mm) – Small pouches, notebook covers, upholstery, belt lining
• 3-4 oz (1.2-1.6mm) – Watch straps, soft wallets, journal covers
• 4-5 oz (1.6-2.0mm) – Wallet exteriors, small bags, moccasins
• 5-6 oz (2.0-2.4mm) – Lined belts, sturdy wallets, tote bags
• 6-7 oz (2.4-2.8mm) – Holsters, satchels, unlined belts
• 7-8 oz (2.8-3.2mm) – Tool rolls, strong belts, saddlery parts
• 8-9 oz (3.2-3.6mm) – Work belts, axe sheaths, firm bags
• 9-10 oz (3.6-4.0mm) – Holsters, heavy-duty belts, armor
• 10-12 oz (4.0-4.6mm) – Saddles, thick straps, reinforcement pieces
• 12-14 oz (4.6-5.6mm) – Thick armor, heavy gear straps, horse tack, saddles
• 14-16 oz (5.6-6.4mm) – Extra-heavy-duty straps, saddles, structural pieces

Note: This guide is for reference only. Leather suitability depends on the specific project and personal preference, and results may vary.